Gel Nails: The Pros & Cons, Explained
Gel nail polish has become a manicure staple in the last decade, with the introduction of Creative Nail Design's Shellac products popularizing the long-lasting, shiny alternative to traditional nail polish. As at-home polishes and kits have become more common, gel nails have successfully spilled over into DIY territory and boosted the product's accessibility. If you're unfamiliar, gel nail polish is made from acrylic monomers and oligomers that are cured under a UV lamp, resulting in a more durable finish.
It's often used on natural nails in place of regular nail polish, but the product can also be applied to artificial nails like acrylic-rivaling gel extensions. Though it's a versatile salon option, there are many pros and cons to consider before your next appointment. In this way, Women spoke to celebrity nail artist Lisa Kon to get all the exclusive details about the gel manicure's many benefits as well as its potential drawbacks.
Gel manicures are more durable than regular ones
One of the biggest benefits a gel manicure offers is longevity, with Lisa Kon exclusively telling us that the polish can last up to three weeks without chipping. This durability is owed to the polish's chemical makeup and UV curing process, which produces a glossy, plastic-like shell that withstands wear-and-tear more effectively than traditional nail polish. Artificial nails like acrylics and dip powder are estimated to have an even longer lifespan, but gel remains a great option for consumers who are looking for something more enduring than traditional polish.
Still, correct application is an important part of ensuring a sturdy set of nails, so those who opt for at-home manicures in place of a salon visit should properly prep their nails for polish application and then closely follow the brand instructions for their selected gel products. To ensure the longevity of your gel manicure, keep your nails well-hydrated with a daily cuticle oil, such as CND Solar Oil, and avoid picking at the polish.
The application and removal process can harm nails
Despite its benefits, there are some nail health concerns associated with gel polishes, with some past wearers reporting that the product weakened their nails over time. Lisa Kon shined light on this phenomenon, revealing, "improper application or removal can weaken natural nails, especially if they are peeled or filed aggressively." In this way, experts maintain that quality gel nail polishes shouldn't harm your nails, encouraging consumers to be diligent when it comes to what polishes and lamps are being used either at-home or in the salon.
"Since the pandemic, we've noticed a rise in the use of at-home gel kits and unlicensed gel products available online," Juanita Huber-Millet, nail salon founder, told Women's Health. "Not only is there a concern around what chemicals might be in these products [but] if these products are not applied correctly, they can be harmful to skin and nails." Additionally, while specialists maintain that quality gel polishes shouldn't harm your nails, it's essential to ensure that the application and removal processes are handled with care.
Whether at home or in the salon, excessive filing and buffing of the natural nails during the manicure process can cause lasting damage. Experts also recommend trusted salons as the safest extraction option, especially when it comes to the tricky removal of hard gel nails, but gel polish remover wraps and acetone are an at-home option for soft gel removal. Filing down the polish beforehand and moisturizing the nails afterwards are important steps, with DIYers advised to exercise care and caution in every step of the process.
Gel nails have the benefit of being quick-drying
The quick curing process of gel nails is one major perk to the salon treatment, especially compared to other manicure options. "Unlike regular polish, gel nails cure instantly under a UV or LED lamp, reducing the risk of smudging," Lisa Kon explained, noting the process takes about 30 to 60 seconds per layer of polish. When the monomers that make-up gel polish are exposed to UVA rays, they undergo a rapid chemical change known as polymerization, which quickly results in the durable finish previously discussed. In contrast, regular polish requires about 15 minutes to air dry, with many experts claiming that nails won't be completely cured for over an hour. As Kon mentioned, this translates to less opportunity for smudging and an overall cleaner look, doubling as a real time-saver in the salon.
The salon treatment requires the skin to be exposed to UV lights
Unfortunately, the fast drying time of gel nail polish does come with a downside, as the UV lights necessary to cure the polish are associated with major health risks. "We know that UVA ray exposure increases your risk of skin cancer, and you have to have UVA exposure to cure a gel manicure," dermatologist and nail specialist Dr. Chris Adigun told Today. "But have we actually proven that link? Do we have that cause and effect proven? We don't."
Though some studies have suggested a link between ultraviolet light exposure and conditions like skin cancer and premature aging, more research is needed to prove and identify how much of an impact these salon machines actually have on users. It's important to note that the LED lights sometimes used for gel manicures pose the same risks, as they also rely on UVA rays to cure polish. "Gels, by definition, need a UVA exposure to polymerize," Dr. Adigun explained to Today. "So if there's no UVA, there is no gel manicure."
Until more research uncovers the full risks of using UV lights, there are a few precautions that nail enthusiasts can take to protect themselves. Experts recommend wearing fingerless gloves with an ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) during your gel manicure appointment or applying a sunscreen with a minimum SPF of 30 ahead of salon visits. Consumers can also minimize exposure by taking gel polish breaks or opting for appointments that are further apart.
Gel polish is known for its high-gloss look
The sleek appearance of gel nails are another benefit to the manicure type, with the polish being known for its long-lasting, glossy finish. "They maintain a fresh, salon-perfect shine throughout their wear," nail artist Lisa Kon told us. This type of shine would lend itself especially well to soap nails, the ultimate minimalist manicure, but this polish also won't limit your nail art options. Gel polish is often more vivid than traditional variations, making it great for vibrant swatches and eye-catching nail art. Additionally, while this stylish look is a major draw of this salon treatment, consumers who prefer a low-gloss aesthetic can opt for a matte top coat while still reaping the other benefits of gel nails.
This manicure option is on the expensive side
Another major drawback of gel nails is that they are more expensive than traditional polish, with Lisa Kon explaining that the manicure option "require[s] professional removal and upkeep." While exact pricing varies by location, it's generally estimated that opting for a gel polish will add $10 to $15 to your bill, while salon removal can range from $5 to $20. Any required touch-ups would likely be more expensive than with traditional polish as well.
On the flip side, gel nails are expected to have a longer lifespan than regularly painted nails, which should translate to less frequent salon visits. For some, this convenience might be a worthwhile pay-off. Overall, there are several pros and cons when it comes to gel nails, all of which should be considered in the context of your personal nail wants and needs.