Skincare Expert Tells Us The Real Difference Between Medical Grade Skincare And Mainstream Formulas

If you like to take care of your skin (which all of us should!) and you've ever been to the doctor or dermatologist to get any kind of skincare product, you've probably found yourself asking this question: Is there really any difference between skincare products marked medical grade (also sometimes referred to as cosmeceutical skincare) and the mainstream formulas that any of us can just buy over-the-counter?

There are those obvious cases of medical-grade products that need to be prescribed because they have such a high percentage of active ingredients. Something like salicylic acid, for example, can't actually be bought over-the-counter at most places in a percentage stronger than 5%. That's because the high intensity of the ingredient has the potential to damage the skin, so it's sold safely under a doctor or dermatologist's supervision. But it's important to note that something marked medical grade doesn't necessarily always mean you'll need a prescription for it. Though, in most cases, they will, sometimes these items are available from the doctor's office only, but without a prescription. And it turns out there are a few key differences between the skincare items being sold at the doctor's office and the ones we can grab off the shelf elsewhere. So we went to dermatologist Dr. Laura Buford to find out more.

One of the biggest differences between over-the-counter products (ones you can buy from places like the drugstore or even the grocery store) and those credited as medical grade, is that medical-grade items have to go through more vigorous testing to get their label. "Over-the-counter options are not subject to the same rigorous standards as skincare products earning the designation of 'medical grade'. Medical grade skincare products are backed by science," Dr. Laura Buford explained to Women.com. "They have been extensively tested with proven efficacy. The products have been shown to be efficacious and safe by clinical research studies, and they are subject to inspection by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA)." 

One of the other biggest differences between medical grade and over-the-counter items? Over-the-counter products can't claim to have any medical benefits. "They cannot state that they 'treat' a skin condition," Dr. Purvisha Patel, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Advanced Dermatology & Skin Cancer Associates, clarified while speaking to Byrdie.

Because of all the science and testing behind these products, you'll probably find your doctor or dermatologist is more likely to recommend them than over-the-counter products. "Whenever we suggest a product for patients, there's an understanding that product will reflect on us, and it needs to meet our high expectations," Dr. Rachel Nazarian, a board-certified dermatologist, shared with Byrdie.

Because medical grade skincare products have to undergo such rigorous testing to get the medical grade stamp of approval, that can often be why they cost a little bit more to buy. "Strict standards for development as well as the assurance of quality ingredients can sometimes result in a higher price point than over-the-counter options," Dr. Laura Buford explained. But that's not all. The ingredients also tend to be purer and, of course, usually more potent in medical-grade products, which also drives the price a bit higher.

But don't think that just slapping the medical-grade label on a product instantly hikes the prices up; that's not always the case. "Many medical grade products are surprisingly affordable and may not be more expensive than some over-the-counter options," Dr. Buford told us. In many cases, the price of a product can actually be more dependent on the brand than its ingredients or the testing it's been through before it gets to you. And you should also always be weary of any medical-grade products that seem more expensive or available than they should. "While some of these skincare lines can be found online, buyers should ensure they are buying from an authorized seller of the brand. There are a number of 'black market' sites that sell fake, expired, or repackaged products," Dr. Buford warned.

Everyone's skin is different and what works will always vary from person to person. But Dr. Laura Buford told us that, chances are, a medical-grade product will deliver better results for most people. "Products earning a medical grade designation are typically 'better' for your skin because of the high quality and concentration of active ingredients," she said. And it's those with more specific skincare conditions that will benefit most from medical-grade products over the alternative. As Dr. Lauren Hamilton, founder of Victor & Garth Clinic, put it to Glamour UK, "I would prescribe a medical grade product to target a specific skin condition, for example, acne, or to achieve a desired effect."

But if you don't have specific issues with your skin and you're just looking for products to keep it more generally healthy, there's no reason why over-the-counter products won't be enough. You may even be able to use a mix of both. "It's unrealistic to expect everyone to maintain a medical-grade-only skin regimen; mixing and matching with over-the-counter to balance side effects and results, works too," Dr. Hamilton said. And Dr. Buford agreed. "There are quality over-the-counter options out there, and not everyone needs a medical-grade skincare product. To know which product would be best for you and to ensure a skincare line or product is truly medical grade, I recommend discussing your skincare concerns with a board-certified dermatologist."