Here's How To Tell The Difference Between Acne Scars & Hyperpigmentation
If you like to read up on the benefits of different skincare products, you've probably noticed that numerous creams and serums claim to be useful in treating various spots, including hyperpigmentation. But does that mean they can also be used to treat acne scars? Are those two even the same thing?
Well, the short answer is no. Hyperpigmentation is a change in skin tone caused by various factors like melasma, skin disease, sun exposure, post-inflammatory trauma, or simply, age. Acne scars, meanwhile, are the aftermath of well, acne — which includes blemishes like whiteheads and blackheads. Sometimes it can look obvious, like a scab, or like tiny dents in the skin's texture.
Here's where things get a bit confusing, though, because there is such a thing as post-acne hyperpigmentation, which is when there's a change in skin pigment caused by acne. Though that's not the same as acne scars, either. As Dr. Malvina Cunningham, a consultant dermatologist, explained to Professional Beauty, "Hyperpigmentation is defined as color change only without any structural changes to the skin." In essence, post-acne hyperpigmentation are skin marks that aren't as drastic or permanent as acne scars. And because they're not the same, a person can experience both acne scars and post-acne hyperpigmentation at the same time.
Acne scars change your skin texture, hyperpigmentation does not
One easy way to tell whether you're dealing with acne scars or hyperpigmentation is by running your finger over the affected area. According to plastic surgeon Dr. Eugine Brunner, if the area feels flat with no change in texture, then chances are, it's hyperpigmentation. If the area does have a textural change, it's probably an acne scar — especially if you know you recently had a blemish in that spot.
And, just like there are different types of acne, there are different types of acne scars. According to Cleveland Clinic, acne scars can be divided into two groups: The first is atrophic or depressed scarring, and it includes ice pick scars, rolling scars, and boxcar scars. Ice pick scars look like tiny, pinprick holes in the skin. Rolling scars, meanwhile have undefined, sloping edges that can make skin appear wavy and uneven. Finally, boxcar scars, which are usually bigger than ice pick scars, go deep and have sharper edges. Boxcar scars infamously create that bumpy-looking skin texture. The second group of acne scars are hypertrophic or keloid scars, which happens when the scar tissue from an acne lesion gets raised above the skin.
Acne scarring, can happen to anyone with acne, with a 2016 study finding that it's most common in those with severe or cystic acne. However, it can still develop even from mild acne. Hyperpigmentation is more likely to occur on darker skin, due to higher levels of melanin.
Hyperpigmentation and acne scars require different treatments
If you feel pressure to cover up your hyperpigmentation or acne scars, allow us to share an important fact: they may be more common than you realize. According to Skin, as many as 40% of people will develop some kind of hyperpigmentation on their skin during their life, while Cleveland Clinic claimed around 80% of 11- to 30-year-olds will develop acne. And one in five of those people will experience scarring as a result. If you do decide to get treatment for either skin condition, there are several different options available.
Treating hyperpigmentation often begins with addressing the source of it. For instance, if your hyperpigmentation is caused by eczema, dealing with the eczema could mean that the spots will resolve on their own. But that's not always the case. Hyperpigmentation sometimes needs additional help. Medical News Today suggests treatments such as laser therapy, chemical peels, and topical creams. Note that depending on the treatment route, it could take several months, or even as long as two years see visible changes after starting treatments. As for post-acne hyperpigmentation? Dermatologist Dr. Dennis Gross recommended trying skincare products containing vitamin C, Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids, or retinoids.
When it comes to acne scars, clinical aesthetician Pamela Marshall suggested to Harper's Bazaar that micro needling and chemical peels can be two of the best treatments. Mayo Clinic also recommends the likes of dermabrasion, steroid injection, and soft tissue fillers — basically, anything that encourages your skin to renew itself. Of course, what treatment works for you will depend on the type of scar, or combination of scars you have. Just remember that before considering any kind of treatment to seek personalized advice from a doctor or dermatologist. A professional will be able to not only be able to properly identify any skin issues, but also give tailored advice on the best treatment methods for your specific skin concerns.